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| Above: Kate on the Swiss Chard Traverse v6 |
It was a treat to visit the Swiss Chard boulder at HCR this weekend and
tick off the classic Jeff's Prow. This climb is super classic and feels
impossible until you unlock the ninja toe hook beta. Joe Larson came up
and we both sent it quick with good temps and constructive competition. Kate got her first v6 points
by redpointing the Swiss Chard Traverse. The climb suited her style and
diet. Saturday I headed up with Kate, Joe, Barret, and Steven to do Typhoon, a v11 variation to an amazing sloper hold. I don't think this one is quite v11, but was excited to find unique beta and send first go today after working it last week. Steven sent the stand, and Joe got super close on it too, but was nursing a sore finger.
Afterwords Joe and I did some searching nearby for new problems. We
found a whole cluster of undone projects near some old Dave Graham
problems. Joe found the first gem worth brushing off and we quickly went
to work figuring out the beta on a unique arete with amazing
compression moves. The crux was dynoing off of two crimps that were
sloped at a 45 degree angle the wrong way for the angle of the climb,
making it nearly impossible to stick the last move up to the slopey lip
that was surprisingly far away. Joe unlocked the bottom section pretty
quick, but we both struggled on the last move for a good hour.
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I
finally figured out what I thought would be good beta for the top, took
a short rest, and gave it that "onelast try... for real this time." I
barely caught the lip and thought I was going to peel off at least three
times before I finally controlled the swing and regained my composure
to top it out. Kate did an awesome job catching the dyno in action!
Props to Joe for finding this spectacular line, Smaug, v9.
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| Above: Wayne sticking the lip on the FA send of Smaug, v9. |
